EeZeBILT 50+ BEAVER Tug
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When you bend back the gunwale, don't do what I did and use a peg. I ended up with a big dent in the soft balsa! Use a pin..
And finally install the 'coffer-dam' water sealing wall that the superstructure will seat on. Depending on your servo you may need to trim the rear part to allow clearance.
Now we can start the superstructure. Here are the parts for a 'River Tug' (basically a TID. The only difference between this and a 'Harbour Tug' is that the superstructure is longer on the Harbour version, to take a lifeboat...
Once it is square and firm, add the remaining roofs and walls...
Stick the sides and mid-roof together. This is an easy way to keep it square.
If you're doing a modern superstructure, the technique is broadly the same.
Sand down the gunwale and trim to fit. In fact, trim all skins to fit. They end half-way across each former, to allow a nice butt-joint with the next skin.
Keeping it square...
Add the front and back, and check with the hull to make sure that it fits snugly. Trim as necessary...
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...and adding the roofs.
The funnel is easily made with a glued strip of paper, and a scrap of balsa spun in a drill to make a disc. I epoxyed a bolt to it to make it removable, but it can equally well be glued, central on the deck behind the wheelhouse...

See the fittings page for dimensions.
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